San Francisco is one of my all time favourite travel destinations (The architecture! The rolling hills! The relevance to 60s Flower Power! The melting pot of cultures!) and I'm
happy to spread the love. One thing that became clear to me is that while San Francisco isn't that big, many of the points of interest aren't exactly near to each other which makes planning a visit hitting all the sights complex. In addition, the most popular/tourist region (near Union Square) is incredibly expensive to stay in and not the most authentic. This made me put some research into SFO's different districts before our first trip there, in 2017.
After two action-packed visits to San Francisco, I feel like I've gathered a pretty good overview of the city: what it has to offer, what districts should be on your must-see list, where to stay and how to plan your time there. Here are my tips!
1. Stay in: Bernal Heights
Bernal Heights is a mostly residential area, set at a higher point which gives it some amazing views. Choosing a more residential area as your base has important perks: you can keep your rental car (absolutely a plus if you want to go across Golden Gate Bridge, which I recommend), and you will be able to stay in one of the city's gorgeous Victorian houses rather than a cramped hotel room, at the same price point. We spent four nights at this stunning spacious Airbnb, which had all of the clawfoot bath tub charm we had wished for, plus a deck offering breath taking views of the city, for about €85 a night per person. Great value for money in a city like San Francisco.
If you stay in Bernal Heights, try to get a place close to either Mission Street or Cortland Avenue, since those to streets are lined with cool bars and restaurants. And it's nice to be able to walk to dinner instead of having to grab your car and look for parking. If you love Italian food, be sure to schedule one of your dinners at Emmy's Spaghetti Shack because their spaghetti and meatballs is divine. By the way, if you hop over to Knockout, the dive bar across the street, be sure to do so on the 4th Sunday of the month because that's their The Simpson's Trivia Night from 6 to 9pm. It's as awesome as it sounds. Oh, and they do bingo nights on Thursdays.
2. Visit/eat at the Mission district: Latino heritage, international cuisine and street art
The Mission district is mostly known for its stunning street art, and its rich Latino heritage. This is the place to be if you want to grab a bite at an authentic taqueria. However, the Mission is also home to probably the most diverse range of international cuisines in all of San Francisco. From Senegalese to Tibetan, you're bound to find a restaurant offering this type of food somewhere around the district.
Art is everywhere, but definitely put Balmy Alley and Clarion Alley on your itinerary if you want to feel like you're visiting an outdoor museum. The art here is vibrant and political, and 100% San Francisco.
3. Not essential but very cool: Chinatown/Union Square
I am a sucker for Chinese donuts. Both of my visits to San Francisco have taken me to Eastern Bakery, and I wholeheartedly recommend them to anyone who gets excited about a crunchy sesame seed pastry filled with red bean paste (trust me, it's so much better than it sounds). San Francisco's Chinatown is the oldest Chinatown in North America, and the largest Chinese enclave outside Asia. Of course there is a bunch of tacky shops where you can buy cheap trinkets, but mostly it's a bustling area filled with restaurants, awesome architecture and a culture-within-a-culture that is completely mesmerizing.
It's easy to combine Chinatown with a visit to the area around Union Square - it's where the Pyramid is, and most of San Francisco's tallest buildings which makes for an impressive stroll. All of the big brand stores are in this neighborhood, so if you have to hit a Sephora/Levi's/Nike before you go home: this is the place to be.
4. Walhalla for vintage/Flowerpower lovers: Haight-Ashbury
My favourite area in San Francisco is, hands down, Haight-Ashbury. This is where the 60's and 70's never really ended. Where Jimi Hendrix was born and where Janis Joplin lived in a pretty pink Victorian house. Where you can walk around in literally any outfit and not get weird glances. We spotted a group of middle aged ladies wearing some type of steampunk get-up and no one batted an eye. The vintage shopping is, obviously, absolutely amazing here. It's like walking around in a museum.
There is also a lot of homelessness and drug use in the area, but let's be honest: that was also always a big part of hippie/Flower Power culture. Artists and young people living in the streets. You could hide the dirt and call it bohemian, or you can expose its edges and see an obviously homeless woman running off stealing a vintage leather jacket from one of the cool kid stores (yes, something we witnessed while there). Both valid views of what is happening here.
5. Cliché but definitely worth it: Fisherman's Wharf and Alcatraz
I wasn't that keen on visiting Alcatraz nor Fisherman's wharf since both are such tourist clichés. However, I wholeheartedly recommend these on your trip to SFO. Alcatraz is a place with such profound historic relevance, both regarding organized crime and regarding Native American civil rights. Apart from that, Alcatraz offers some of the most beautiful views of the city. The audio tour is narrated by actual Alcatraz guards and inmates, and it's like listening to an immersive podcast. So cool.
Fisherman's Wharf is great if you know what to expect: beautiful sea views, sea lions, chowder served in sourdough bread bowls, funnel fries, hotdogs and a strong breeze. I always love its lively vibe, so I don't mind it being very tourist-centric. And it can be fun to get an espresso-strength shot of every cliché people think of when it comes to San Francisco.
6. Can't miss: Golden Gate Bridge
Of course you need to make your way to this amazing landmark. You have to take a bus/Uber/car to visit the bridge, and it takes some time to make your way up there, so plan accordingly. Also, the bridge is barely visible on a cloudy/foggy day, and those aren't exactly rare in SFO, so if you have one day with a sunny forecast in your itinerary: make it a Golden Gate day. And if you're already there, drive your car across the bridge and visit Muir Woods!
7. A breath of fresh air 30 minutes outside of the city: Muir Woods
Finally, technically not a San Francisco district, Muir Woods is actually about half an hour's drive from Golden Gate bridge. It's the nearest place for you to see actual redwoods in the area, and it's an overwhelming experience. The air there is so pure and sweet, the trails are wonderfully calm and quiet, and the drive there takes you over hilltops, through fog and into this expanse of lush green woods - an experience I'll never forget. Also, their souvenir shop is pretty much the best one we visited during our entire California roadtrip, and that's saying a lot. I bought my favourite t-shirt ever there, and there's plenty of beautiful items carved out of redwood branches.
I hope this blog post represents the amount of beauty the city has to offer! I can't wait to go back myself. It's one of those cities that actually create a feeling similar to homesickness when I think back to my time there. If you have any questions: shoot!
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